Sant Pol De Mar

Bonnie came alone with us to the beach at Sant Pol on Friday.  Duna was in disgrace after an early morning brawl and stayed at home.  Decisions like this are hard but it was so much more relaxing without having to deal with stressed up dogs

The water is still cool – even for me!  The cormorants were both there on the rocks.
Funny to think that when I first went there I was embarrassed to take off all my clothes – it feels totally natural now and the people there are almost always really nice. On this particular day it seemed that each small group had taken along a fair skinned person  so I didn’t feel peculiar.
National ‘Take a White Person to the Beach’ Day!
Dogs welcome too!  You were looking at the dog weren’t you?

Catalan – the film

Ok so here we go again!
It was Catalan week and I managed to do the video on Sunday.
Just in time.
And now it is HERE  on YouTube where you can see me on the beach fumbling around in Catalan while Bonnie cavorts behind me – amongst other things!
She is the star of the film and it is worth watching just for the beautiful light by the sea.

If anything this attempt is worse than the first one but I have to let you see it as I promised I would!
I am not being falsely modest – it really is much worse than I am capable of but I get terribly nervous in front of the camera.
I am writing this on Monday/Tuesday which means I am now back in Castellano. All this changing about is making me feel like this

Crazier and crazier. So please be patient. Soon I hope this blog – and life – will soon return to normal.
Whatever that means.

Wild Flowers of the Congost

Here are some pictures of the walk I took with Bonnie last week.
We went all the way from home to the Vienna Cafe and back.
Past the church at Palou. It strikes every quarter hour and reminds you of the Catalan way of telling the time – un quart, dos quarts, tres quarts meaning quarter past, half past and quarter to. In the days before clocks and watches people always knew the time by hearing how often the bell rang.
Of course it helped if you had a vague idea of which hour it was too.

The whole walk was about 11 km, most of it along the side of the River Congost.
The flowers are incredible at the moment.
I wish I knew their names – I know the little blue one is Borage of course!

After four hours of walking we were very relaxed and began to see pictures and patterns in everything around us. I love that state of mind. It’s the first stirrings of creativity I’ve had for months.

GR92 near Orrius

Yesterday Bonnie and I met Oreneta and Chuck for a walk along part of the GR92. This is the Catalan name for a long walking trail that goes from the Pyrenees to the south of Catalunya.  It stretches further south into Andalucia and north into France but the Catalan part was so named to mark its completion in 1992 the year of the Barcelona Olympics.
It was a perfect walking day, sunny but not too hot, and we were mainly going along a very well maintained rough track on the top of the ridge. The mountains here are called The Corredor  – on one side is the Valles Oriental and Granollers and on the other, The Maresma and the Mediterranean Sea.
We met at Sant Bartomeu chapel. I didn’t know who this saint was but it seems he was also one of the apostles. When first he heard of Jesus he said  ” Can anything good come out of Nazareth?”

We walked to the mineral spring the Font of Sant Mateu. He was the disciple that was a tax collector of whom Jesus said “I came not to call the righteous but the sinners”. Interesting!
Isn’t it amazing that here the rivers are either low or barely more than a dribble but all around the mountains there are fresh supplies of wonderful clear drinking water?

There and back was about 14 km and of course there were little breaks for snacks!
Who can resist these two beautiful friends?  Chuck was a perfect gentleman and chased off cars and wild dogs to protect Bonnie who was incredibly happy share her sandwiches with him.

A week in Almeria

I couldn’t send posts from the campsite wifi so that plan didn’t work!
TO DO   *get a phone contract with internet access.
Now there is too much to say but I’m going to say it anyway – sorry, you have been warned, it is long!

Day 1

We stopped off for our first night camping near Xativa. The romantic fantasy of sleeping beside the hill top castle was scored out when we arrived to find it regulated and fenced off. After a long twilight drive looking for somewhere to park we asked some people about nearby campsites.
They were Belgian and said we could use their land. We followed them to a field in the middle of a plain. There was a shed with two horses and nothing much else.
We closed the gate and parked under a star lit sky, feeling safe enough to sleep well without worrying about intruders or irate landowners waking us up.

Day 2
We left around 6am and drove the rest of the way to a beach called Genoveses near San Jose in Almeria. Parking beside many other camper vans, we began to make ourselves at home but around sunset the park guards arrived and moved everyone on. It is common in this area to sleep in the beach car parks but sometimes they do a massive clear out and send you to the municipal car park in town. We drove that way but it was now dark and hard to find so we stopped on an empty road on the outskirts of town. Slept well although my body stayed semi-alert for patrol cars and early morning runners and dog walkers made it hard to have a pee.
The countryside was full of wild flowers

Day 3
Breakfast in San Jose. Three dogs are an extra challenge when it comes to eating out. Especially when two of them fight and have to be kept out of biting distance. We managed this by using the terrace of a lovely pizzeria which served fresh fruit salad as well as toast and honey. Seated by the beach we could watch the stall owners setting up for the day with crystals and nicknacks for the tourists. One stand had rails of those baggy trousers which look like they are made to accommodate adult nappies. And sure enough there were lots of people walking by wearing them!
We moved to a new beach and found many of the other camper vans already there.
This was a lovely day, sunny and hot but with enough wind to keep Blue cool in her black thick coat.
I gave her a haircut – her first ever – with a pair of nail scissors and she ended up looking very chic with a short back and sides.
The sea was very calm. Blue went in almost immediately and swam for a long time.
Lovely to see her

That night we slept very well. No interruptions, all dogs now used to the van and the rhythms of camping. Duna sleeps in the front with her own blanket and the curtains separating her room from the back. Bonnie and Blue curl on the floor space at the end of the bed. In the mornings it’s so easy to open the door and slip out straight onto sandy open space.
Bonnie and I watched the sun rise over the sea.
Day 4
But the lack of toilets and showers and electricity for recharging the phones/cameras does make a camp site a tempting proposition.
We went to Tau Camping in San Jose. I will write about that in a separate post – it deserves more than a few words. It was wonderful in every way.
There is a bakery in San Jose which sells fantastic cakes. Did I take any photos? No – I just seemed to eat them without even thinking of preserving the memory. He also has great bread and little pasties of spinach or vegetables.
Day 5
Now installed in the camp site I began to feel more relaxed which meant a day of descans was needed. Here is where I lay and dozed and read and listened to the birds

Day 6
Now all the days begin to melt into each other.
We explored the park, visited more beaches, ate more lovely Andalusian food.
There is a village which is famous for being used in the filming of The Good, The Bad and The Ugly. It was very windy – Blue wasn’t keen to pose.  A place called The Middle of Nowhere!

Lunch in a village square with the dogs safely sleeping in the shade in the van.
Duna has to be tied to the seat….just in case….you see, it isn’t straightforward camping with three dogs
 
The roads were quiet in the interior. Sometimes you are driving along rough tracks, like in the Westerns that were filmed in this area.
Here are rocks in the Mineral Trail, there was once a gold rush around here

Day whoknowswhat
We had a long and interesting breakfast with our camping neighbours. She was for many years a naturopath and he worked in theatre. The campsite has little corners strategically placed for morning and evening sunshine with tables and benches. The sparrows join you companionably, searching for crumbs, the main areas of camping entertainment are far away so there is little noise but the rustle of the wind through the trees

Then the drive back led us to stop again near Xativa. This time we took the inland road, the A7.
As it was Saturday afternoon all the lovely places selling pots were closed.

I drove along a straight and quiet highway with sculptures marking every crossroad



Then we found a hidden place in the hills to park and sleep. The moon was high and almost full. Noone bothered us. We woke early and set off again at 4am. Perfect driving on Easter Sunday.
Stopped for lunch in Altafulla. Tapas by the beach, dogs again peaceful under the table while being fed occasional peixet fregit (little fried fish) heads to keep them happy

Home to find the house unexpectedly dirty, messy and chaotic due to unprogrammed sleep overs by Resident Adolescent and his friends. But that is another story!