Hidden gems in Clot

When I go to Barcelona to meet my friend Cristina we meet in Clot. The train from Granollers stops there before it reaches Passeig de Gracia and it is easier for her to get to from home. We have been able to explore a different part of Barcelona.  It is a bustling place – full of cafes and little independent shops but there is a peaceful atmosphere that makes it less tiring than meeting up always in the centre of the city.

I needed to buy some paint brushes for my art class so it was good to find this small corner shop selling lots of things like plaster figures, decorating materials and paint brushes and easels

 Rent rises and high city taxes have been making many of these small businesses close down

 Every week there are fewer of these emblematic Barcelona shops. Such a horrible thought that one day it could be a city just like any other with only chains and multi-nationals.

I got my brushes – we need big ones to make the base for these pictures – drawn with a stick on top of very thick white paint. Then when it is dry we painted on top.



Overnight in Trippy Square

I arrived in Barcelona around 4pm and immediately realised I was wearing too many clothes.
It is that Spring-time feeling!

Barcelona streets were full of people in shorts and teeshirts. I was wearing boots, a jumper and my black winter coat. I wondered why I had thought it OK to leave the house wearing so much black? Gradually I realised that most if not all of the summery people were tourists. You don’t get so many of them in Granollers!

First stop was the Venus cafe in Carrer Avinyo in the Barrio Gotico

Very nice waitress gave me a menu in English but then spoke in Castellano.  Saturday is one of my Spanish days and I needed to practise before going to the tango workshop.  I try to speak Catalan on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays and Castellano on Tuesdays, Thursday and Saturdays.  It is hard and it does confuse me but I can’t see any other way to keep both languages on the go. And people here are adept at switching mid conversation so I also need the skill of making rapid changes.

The tango workshop was good.   It was wonderful to dance again after a year.  When I was learning Lindy Hop I found it frustrating how little attention was given to making the ‘connection’ between leader and follower.  They do talk about it but you need a tango class to really go in depth into how this communication is central to the dance, and to life.
Gisela and Alejandro in Sala Arditi ….. lovely teachers

In between classes we went to a little bar called Bodega La Palma, near my first flat in Barcelona

We got back to my friends flat around 3am – very late for me these days. She lives in the famous Plaça de George Orwell otherwise known as Plaça del Trippi or Trippy Square. It is very noisy and the mixture of drunk tourists and out of their heads locals make this a difficult place for people to live.   I read that this is now on the tourist map as somewhere exciting to visit but coming home everyday to screaming groups of half naked teenagers, red-eyed staggering zombies and having to step over vomit and piss as you open your door is no fun for locals. There are police cameras and the odd police van but nothing really has changed the atmosphere in the years I have known the place. The shouting and screeching went on till nearly dawn but I slept through it, tired by city energy.

Only a few streets away it is quieter and calmer

I have favourite places in this barrio of Barcelona and they always draw me with magnetic force even when I don’t intend to visit them.
One of these is the Church of Sant Just i Pastor

Today when I went in there was a Sunday service taking place. I stood at the back and listened to the priest speaking in Catalan.  I understood much of it and noticed for the first time how similar it is to Latin.  For a few moments I could imagine how it might be to be in Rome and hear Latin spoken as a living language all around me

I am not part of any Christian religion but I love this church and often came here seeking peace when I first was staying here.
It is very rare for me to visit this part of Barcelona and not come into the church.
The square outside is very pretty too

Walking up to Placa Catalunya there were human castles rising and falling – not literally falling, fortunately I have never seen one collapse although I know it happens and I can’t watch without worrying that this will be the day. One of the towers wobbled a lot but remained strong

‘Born to make a pine-cone’  It means lots of people coming together to make something strong. When some human castles are created, the surrounding people will all form a pinya to help support the structure.  I’ve never seen one that big but I’ve heard they can fill a square.

Last goodbye to the Barcelona skyline just before I go down into the station

On Sunday there are fewer trains going to our nearby station so I had to get off at Granollers Centre and walk home, carrying again my hot coat and jumper. but at least it meant I could stop off for a cooling drink of Orxata with a dollop of coconut icecream. The first of the season

Sign seen at the rail station in Passeig de Gracia.
This is the sort of confusion my brain has to deal with!

Off to Barcelona!

This is just to say that I am going to dance some tango today!

The first time in many months.

Originally I planned to go to a milonga alone and just see if I could get a dance – I don’t find it easy in Barcelona, it was better when I first came and I was full of determination.  But then I went through a barren period and haven’t really recovered my confidence. 

I saw that Gisela, my teacher in the past, is running workshops today, Hoy Pruebo El Otro Lado, in dancing on the other side – leaders following and followers leading.   It seemed a good way to re-enter the world without putting myself through some kind of lonely milonga torture.  And I can already lead so I don’t have to worry too much. I am still nervous though.

So off I go!  I even arranged to meet a friend and so won’t have to go in alone. Looking after myself!

I will report back how it goes. I’m so looking forward to walking through the Cuidad Vella down to Carrer Avinyo.   I love that area.   I am heading for a cafe called Venus.

Market Day Granollers March 2014

It is Thursday so it’s market day!

I like getting ready to go out to the market, my wheelie basket at my side.  Here in Cataluny you don’t have to be an old lady to use a shopping trolley. They are practical and almost everyone has one.  I was laughed at in the UK when I walked with my old wickerwork trolley and of course it isn’t so useful when you are in a car. But here where the market is just five minutes down the road, it means you can buy all the fresh fruit and vegetables that you want and also have a handy weapon to help you get through the crowds

Look down the hallway and perhaps you can just make out the freshly painted walls of our sitting room. We painted it white last week.  I have been wanting to do that for four years!

And in the kitchen there are three fresh baked loaves

 After Bonnie died I got a huge urge to start baking bread.  I lost the ability quite a long time ago and after producing several hard inedible bricks I gave up.  But something has changed and so far they have all been delicious.  It’s good to know exactly what is in your daily bread
I use Delia Smiths recipe for quick easy wholemeal bread.
The two little ones are half wheat and half rye.
The one on the left is half Kamut – an experiment

So, off to the market. I will try to take photos but I am nervous ever since one of the gypsy stall holders ran after me shouting not to take pictures. I need to get over this.

Another Broken Tooth

Did I tell you I broke a tooth yesterday? 
Another tooth. It is something that happens on a regular basis and probably is the result of having so many fillings when I was a child. I have British mouth syndrome as the dentists call it here. If you are younger than 40 you probably don’t know what I mean but many people of my age have mouths full of fillings.  Black amalgam ones.  And gradually they fall out or the surrounding tooth breaks off.

I have a great dentist here and yesterday they immediately did the filing job needed to make it comfortable to eat and speak. This afternoon I went for the filling itself.  It was one of those dentist visits that need a lot of self control and a graduate degree in calmness under duress. Nothing hurt but the injection made half my tongue go to sleep and then they decided to stuff my mouth with what felt like a frilly latex skirt, splayed out in order to collect any pieces of flying mercury amalgam.

No need to go on with this description except to say that sitting in the dentists chair must be one of life’s most lonely experiences. Thank goodness they don’t expect you to carry on a conversation any more and as the whole procedure is carried out in Catalan I have even more excuse for just grunting.

I kept thinking of this BBC comedy clip and hoping I wouldn’t start to laugh hysterically.  If you watch it, wait for the part with the two monkeys…..

The wonderful thing about going to the dentist here is the view from their building

Down onto the Porxada and across to the Ajuntament building. Or over to Can Clapes