Breast feeding

We saw this sign on the coast path near St Feliu de Guixols on the Costa Brava.
There was a tunnel with various viewpoints looking out at the bays

The Mirador is named for wet nurses – Dides in Catalan

A Dida was a woman who breast-fed someone else’s child. Perhaps because the mother was ill or incapable of feeding her baby.  Many women died in childbirth so the Dida was also needed to help those babies survive. Or perhaps the mother was from a social class that could afford to pay someone to take over a task which she didn’t want to do. In the days before reliable contraception it would have freed some women from an unending cycle of reproduction and feeding.
For centuries wet nursing was common all over the world and only went into decline with the advent of artificial baby milk.
Here in Catalunya some wealthy people had a Dida who lived in the house for years, feeding the babies as they arrived.  I hadn’t really thought about wet nursing before but although nowadays it seems strange or even distasteful, I can see how practical it was and perhaps a better idea than feeding babies something created in a factory. Apparently you don’t have to keep having your own babies to produce milk – if you keep feeding, the milk can be produced for years. I suppose this also protected some of the women who worked in this way from unwanted pregnancies.
I wonder why this bay was so named?

Two Dream Homes

It was such a beautiful day that we went straight to the coast and decided to leave balnearis for another day!  We did stop off in Caldes de Malavella and found out that one of the huge hotel spas didn’t really cater for day trippers while the other – Hotel Vichy Catalan – offers lots of different packages for a reasonable price.
But….leave the dogs in the van while we relaxed in mineral bathes?  Not possible.
So we went to a beach called St Pol near Sant Feliu de Guixols, had a slow walk around the coast path and then a long and even slower lunch in El Racó de St Pol.
There are some lovely seaside houses on this part of the coast – places to dream about and imagine how it would be to go down for early morning swims in the green blue sea.

Blue had been given the homoeopathic remedy Thuja in the morning and was bouncing up and down the steps along the way. I’ve not seen her so happy and lively and pain free for years.

Bliss

Before I write about our homecoming I must just show you these photos of the meal in Cahors. It was one of those dinners which won’t be forgotten. The hotel was so beautiful, sitting right on the edge of the river Lot which snakes around the city making it almost an island. Because we were all tired we decided to eat in the hotel restaurant and leave the dogs safe and nearby in the van. I was almost too tired to eat but also really needing something more than travel food. We ate from the Menu which was 17 euros plus wine.
Every single mouthful was heaven.
First there was fish soup with little toasts and cheese and a spicey sauce. The main dish was a simple steamed white fish with a delicious sauce, ratatouille and perfect roast potatoes. For pudding I had creme brulee and Marta the icecream. The wine was local from Cahors and the waitress who was Argentinian and had taken a fancy to Marta let us share the wine buffet which meant you could keep going up to chose and taste another.
Here we are in this paradise

Home

We arrived home in Granollers last night. So good to be here and after all the work and worrying it is wonderful to be able to stop at last.

Yesterday we set off in more rain from Cahors – it seemed to chase us ever south. But after a couple of hours we felt the change – that feeling of crossing a line between north and south. There is a temperature change but it is something more – a different light, something in the air, an easing of the bones.

I am sure the dogs felt it too.

We stopped in an Aire and walked up through some pines into a beam of sunlight

Blue’s tail was wagging – it was so good to see as I struggle with guilt about bringing her so far from Cornwall. She managed the hill more easily,  started to sniff around with interest instead of hanging her head despondently and I felt myself begin to relax at last.

When you live in the UK this feeling is wonderful when you arrive in a warmer country – those first steps off an airplane into a rush of hot scented air.  This time I realised it didn’t feel like a holiday – it felt like I was coming back to a place I belong. You couldn’t find someone who looks more northern than me but somewhere inside there is a mediterranean gene, there must be!

Petit Dejeuner

Yesterday we set off early and stopped for breakfast in ….? …….a small town outside Chartres. Perfect stopping place, sorry I can’t remember the name.

then a long drive of over 500 km through the storm, rain and wind and hailstones, gradually getting warmer, stopping in an Aire called Les Champs d’Amour, until we reached Cahors and found a hotel  which accepted dogs and had a beautiful white room available and a restaurant!  All beside the river and with parking just outside the door.