The Catalan Way

Welcome to all the people who have arrived here ‘by mistake’ when searching for Via Catalana or the Catalan Way!  I hope you are not too disappointed and perhaps even stay to read a little. 
I am feeling rather proud that I chose the name Catalan Way for my blog all those years ago. 

If you really want to go somewhere else – this may help!

I don’t know how many Scottish women or border collies were taking part in the human chain from one end of Catalunya to the other today, but we were there!

We went to a section of the N2 near Sant Pol beach.
This road is normally extremely busy and you cross over with great care. Today it was empty of traffic for about 4 hours and it was wonderful to be able to stroll along the colourful line of people who had come to join hands at 14 minutes past 5

It had been a rainy morning and a cloudy afternoon but right on cue the sun came out and the sky was blue.  When we all joined hands we weren’t sure if this was ‘it’. There was no way to know if almost two million people were holding hands at the same moment. I wondered if the chain had begun at one end and was passed along but I think we all just got the message from our neighbours.  When they began making waves, a ripple of running forward and back would pass along the chain and then, it did feel real.

An amazing experience

It followed much of the path of the Via Augusta, a roman road.

The route was about 500 km and it extended another 2km into France/Catalunya Nord

Somewhere between 1.6 and 2 million took part…….and probably many more

Did it feel nationalistic?  Yes and no. Of course it involved flags and songs but there was no sense of the day belonging to only Catalan people. I felt welcome and part of it as someone who lives here and cares about what happens next.  The atmosphere was positive and celebratory.

Oh and the barriers were up on the paying part of the motorway – this itself made the day feel different.





Do Scotland and Catalunya have a lot in common?

Camping in the Scottish mountains and thinking about Scottish independence.
It is interesting hearing what people are thinking.
When I was in Granollers a waiter came and shook my hand when he heard I was Scottish – he felt there was a special relationship between the two countries and that the Scottish referendum was something that could help the Catalan struggle.
However, here in Scotland it seems that people either don’t know anything about the Catalan situation or they don’t want to get too closely associated with it.   In case it muddies the waters here.
That made me think how interesting to see this principle in action – when two minorites or less powerful groups want to get more power they do not necessarily want to join together. If they think it could hinder their own process they may well distance from the other rather than join together and give support.

So Catalans can see the Scottish referendum strengthening their case. But some Scots see the Catalans as pulling the tail of the Spanish tiger – which might be bad news for Scotland and their entry into Europe.

We are hoping to get clearer as our trip around Scotland continues.

25N+2

Two days on and the streets still look much the same as before the election. But of course we are now in a new phase. There was no absolute majority, Artur Mas will have to make a pact with another party in order to push things through Parliament. He seems to have two main options – ERC on the left who would not agree to continuing the policy of cuts in social services or PSC who actually lost a lot of support in this election. 

I’ve been reading as much as possible both in foreign and local newpapers. It is interesting to see how much is written about it in English. Some British papers are following the line of Madrid and seeing only how Mas lost face and therefore seems disempowered. But others have seen the more complex realities – how people voted both For independence and Against the cuts. That seemed to be what many people were balancing up in their decisions of who to vote for. The call for a referendum is just as strong but there were also other issues to reflect on and even though Mas was applauded for his stance, it was necessary to let him know his parties financial policies were hated.
Today in Granollers there was a demonstration against the eviction of a family who, having lost their jobs, couldn’t pay the mortgage. Even though the government of the PP in Madrid had promised an end to evictions of vulnerable people, still the bank was going ahead as planned.
Everything feels in a state of flux and change.

Opinions about Independence

In Fridays edition of El Nou, a newspaper in Catalan covering stories in the Valles Oriental where I live, they printed the results of a survey about Independence.
Twenty local people every week will be asked three questions:
1/ Do you believe there should be a referendum about independence?
2/ Why?
3/ If it happens, what will you vote?

This first week 18 out of 20 said Yes to question 1. And 15 out of 20 said Yes to question 3.

Here are some of the responses in more detail. It is interesting because this really is a subject of discussion here at the moment.   I’ve been part of numerous conversations about the possibility of an independent Catalunya.  The most recent being last night with a Spanish woman standing outside a bar in Granollers having a cigarette in the rain!

Lluis(architect)
1/ Yes, obviously!
2/ To assess public opinion and if the citizens of Catalunya say yes then to start the process as quickly as possible
3/ Yes Yes Yes!

Vicenç (artist)
1/ Yes, of course
2/ When one and a half million people come out on the streets demonstrating in this way, no democracy can escape from paying attention. It was a turning point.
3/ Yes. Catalunya has to be an independent state because anything else is not viable. What future is there in having a relationship based on threats?

Julian (President of Football Club)
1/ No
2/ Catalunya has to fight to achieve the best possible economic pact with Spain. But spare me the rest! I don’t agree with independence.
3/ No

Vicenç (President of PIMEC)
1/ Yes
2/ Because the the country’s situation is very bad and I believe in having our own state and in the idea that the civil society of Catalunya can decide freely what it wants in the future.
3/ I will vote Yes.

And what about my own answers?
1/ Yes
2/ The longer I live here the more I realise that Catalunya is not Spain. So long as the Spanish government continues to treat Catalunya as a milk cow, using it for the money that it produces but treating the culture and the people with disrespect and no regard for equality or fairness, then it seems inevitable that people here will want to create their own free and democratic country.
3/ I won’t be eligible to vote but if I could I would vote Yes.

Independence – the Scottish Catalan connection

When I first arrived in Barcelona three years ago I was surprised to find that so many people were interested in Scotland and in the Scottish Nationalist Party.  I soon realised that people here were watching closely the process in the UK as discussions took place about having a referendum. If Scotland could move towards independence then perhaps there was hope for Catalunya.
Yesterday, as I am sure you can’t have missed, the UK Prime Minister and the Scottish First Minister made an agreement to hold a referendum about independence in 2014.
The headline in todays Catalan newspaper is
Londres pacta – Madrid amenaça 
with a large photograph of Alex Salmond shaking hands with David Cameron.

I feel totally unqualified to speak of either Scotland’s move towards independence or the current situation in Catalunya where it seems more than half the population now want to separate from Spain and be an independent nation.

I don’t mean I have no opinions but I haven’t lived in Scotland for 32 years and all I know of Catalan politics is hearsay as I struggle hard to understand the history, the television and the newspapers.
But I am very interested in it all and as a Scot living in Catalunya I can’t help but feel involved.

What people used to say to me when they discovered I was Scottish was,

  • ‘do you think Scotland will be independent?’
  • ‘what do people in Scotland feel about the English?’
  • ‘why did the Scots let go of their language so easily?’

 I felt rather ashamed of my lack of knowledge and even my lack of passion about these questions. While my questioners were concentrating on the similarities I could only see the differences.
I never thought of independence in Scotland as being something that would bring millions of people onto the streets. Many people, myself included, feel it is a good idea but is it a passionate desire?
After all Scotland is a separate nation already. It has or had many politicians in power in the UK government.  It is not suffering greater financial hardship than the rest of the UK due to unfair taxation and redistribution. It doesn’t have to pay to use motorways while the English travel for free.
But recently I have been rethinking this first reaction.

About the English
When there is a sports event of course I want Scotland to do well and to be honest couldn’t care less if England wins or loses.  An English person recently got annoyed with me for saying this, he clearly felt I ‘should’ support English teams. But I don’t feel English in any way so why would I?
However I don’t hate them.
I lived in England for years, I love some English people, I like England. But it is a different country.  This is how most Catalans I meet feel about Spain.  They are accused of hating Spain and Spanish people but in my experience they just want to get on with being Catalan and running their own country.  Yes some people speak negatively about the Spanish but that’s normal – the Scots do it  about the English.
There is a difference of degree of frustration. I can see many reasons why Catalunya would want to separate from a Spain which treats them unfairly and continues to ram Spanishness and the defeat of the Civil War down their throats.
While my annoyances with England seem rather mild in comparison.
It’s infuriating when people talk of England when they mean Great Britain.  For Catalans this happens all the time and because they are not officially a nation, they can’t say with as much force as Scots can, I am not Spanish but Catalan.  I have a British passport and Catalans have Spanish passports.   But how would I feel if I had an English passport?  If England insisted that I call myself English?  Much more angry I am sure!
Of course there is the oil. But I’m not going to go there now.
And the fact that Scotland generally is more left wing than England yet has to live with the result of a nation-wide election. But I’m not going there either!

Language
Gaelic has never felt like my language – I don’t see it as something that I lost as it was never spoken throughout Scotland. There is however another language in Scotland which was treated as inferior and which was pushed aside to be replaced by English in official speech. This language is Scots and I agree that this has been suppressed and ridiculed and yet it survives. I wonder if in an independent Scotland, Scots words such as bairn, glaikit, scunnered, would brought back centre stage?  Scots is a language in its own right, not just a dialect of English as some would see it.  Perhaps it would be better to see both English and Scots as two dialects which have developed from the same root – an Angles language which arrived in Scotland about 1400 years ago. But clearly the two have not been treated equally and with the union of the parliaments in 1707, English took precedence.
Catalan though is a strong and totally different language from Spanish. It is an official language of the country. But everyday there are reminders that it is not treated equally – there is much to swallow with a smile and it is hardly surprising when people get frustrated. Legal documents for example are in Spanish – courts use Spanish – sometimes police force suspects to answer in Spanish.  There is a lot more of the jackboot in this than happens in Scotland.

The same or different?
While I have moved towards seeing more the similarities between the two struggles for independence, the papers today are speaking of the differences.
While London makes a pact, Madrid threatens.
The shocking reality at the moment is that every day brings another threat from the politicians of Madrid and the PP.  They are terrified of democracy, terrified of the possibility of losing one of the richest parts of the Spanish nation, terrified of losing control. So there are threats of violence, of retribution and a constant stream of negative comments about Catalans – that they are greedy, subversive, selfish, trouble-makers.  While all that Catalans want is a referendum to see if the majority want to be an independent state, Madrid responds as if this were a declaration of war.
I don’t think Scotland and the Scottish are hated and feared by the English as the Catalans are by Madrid and in the end I think this may make the difference in what happens next here.