Food and Drink

Everything about things to eat and drink. Recipes and restaurants and cafes too.

Bar hopping in Barcelona

~ Kate Wilson ~ 6 Comments

Barcelona for an afternoon and a night.
It’s always a treat and this time was especially good as I saw a friend who I haven’t been able to catch up with for months. She was the first local friend I made in the city – about 6 years ago – and has always been a source of laughs, advice, support and interesting places to visit.
If not for her I would never have found the Hare Krishna vegetarian restaurant near Plaça Reial, or the women’s library near the Palau Musica Catalana, nor the milk bar where I had my first orxata experience. And I would not have stayed for 6 weeks in a tiny flat in Palma Sant Just which is owned by a friend of hers.
So, we met at Drassanes and with the use of her Bicing card we cycled all around Barceloneta and the Ribera.
First we sent to the nudist beach Sant Sebastia for a swim. Only to find that hardly anyone was nude which is very unusual. The next night on the news I saw that the recent law on nudity on the streets has been used to stop people stripping off on the naturist part of the beach. They said there were complaints from ‘the neighbours’  Ummm…..there are no houses there – only the new and incredibly modern and expensive hotel W which sits at the far end of the beach

Possibly the complaints came from that direction?
We went along to take a look at the bar and the vestibule – it is very luxurious and comfortable

At every door there were people guarding the entrances – any old riff raff from the beach definitely not welcome. But we walked confidently by

Afterwards we went for a genuine vermut in one of my favourite bars near the Barceloneta market

It was very busy so we just stood at the counter and eyed up the cheeses and sausages.

At every stop we put back the bicycle in the stand

then took another when we were ready to go. Bicing is such a convenient and sensible system and the promenade by the beach is the perfect place to go spinning along with the wind in your hair.
Next stop was a Kebab cafe for falafels and hummus …..and a couple of beers!
Still not too wobbly we managed to negotiate the traffic and get to the narrow streets of the Ribera, the area close to Santa Maria del Mar. It was Saturday night and everywhere was buzzing. It’s not easy winding around people as they dither and dawdle along but bikes and people seem to mix fairly well in these tiny streets. My friend could ride along, snaking between people but I was less practised and had to keep jumping on and off and ringing my bell.
We went into a bar – Valentina on Regomir – which is full of armchairs and bookcases. You can take books away if you bring in new ones so the titles are constantly being added to and refreshed

We found a comfortable corner, pulled out some books, ordered wine and a mojito and settled down to read in peace for an hour. After such a busy evening it was nice to just rest and relax with a friend with no need to talk.

Next morning I went back to my favourite square for a coffee and croissant – It’s just beside the Esglesia Sant Just i Pastor which is a 4th century church I often visit for quiet meditation.
I am soon setting off on travels to France and Italy and then on to Cornwall and won’t be back here for a few months. It feels strange to know that when I return, hopefully with two dear dogs in the back of the van, it will be harder to make these short trips to Barcelona. So every moment of this one felt extra precious and sweet.

Speaking of journeys – I forgot that we started off in the Maritime Museum with a coffee and chocolate croissant. There is an exhibition there now about a big storm that happened in the Mediterranean in 1911 – a year I always notice as it is when my mother was born. I don’t know what the connection was with the exhibit in the courtyard of a ship and its passengers but it made a good photo!

I feel am setting off on a new adventure, waving to friends and family as my boat sets sail to goodness knows where. If all goes to plan and I return to live with three dogs in Granollers – I will be Dog Woman!

A Summer Party

~ Kate Wilson ~ 3 Comments

Back on the last train from Barcelona to Granollers. We went to a goodbye party for a friend in a small cosy flat in the Gotic area and so now I am pleasantly rolling a little as if on a gentle boat trip.
Lovely evening  with a group of people from many different countries in South America and Catalunya.
Around a table, lots of talking in both Catalan and Castellano.
Laughing, struggling to hear but knowing that when I missed a bit, a smile would do.
Food kept appearing from the kitchen – home made  empanadas and pizzas.  Someone brought a Columbian dish made from maize which tasted a bit like polenta. Picture below.
Bottles of wine were opened, drunk, and replaced.
As we left, sadly before the music started as we had to catch the train, a flan appeared. It is a sort of milky egg pudding. Like creme caramel but firmer. Like Crema Catalanya but spongier.
I have to say that I love going to Barcelona, love these multi cultural warm parties, sticky nights, the sounds of the street and even the smell of pee as we walked to the metro.
Thank you Sandra and Jim and thank you Pep for coming with me!

After Work

~ Kate Wilson ~ 3 Comments

Summer school is from 10 – 2.  Then it is lunch time and we went to the Toy Restaurant which is just around the corner and is cheap and cheerful. If you are vegetarian it is impossible to manage with the Menu (the set meal which is the cheapest way to eat lunch here) but luckily I was in a fishy mood so had white beans with tuna followed by boquerones fritos with chips. I didn’t realise these are actually anchovies until a few moments ago. So I was wrong when I told my friends this evening that I don’t like anchovies!
The part of the day after lunch before the dark evening is called La Tarda. It sort of means the afternoon but somehow isn’t quite exactly the same as it stretches until well past 7pm in the summer.
I walked into the centre of town around 4pm.
If I had walked straight down from my house I would have walked here

 but I decided to cross the road and walk here with everyone else!

It was 30 degrees according to the clock/thermometre outside the pharmacy.
After doing a little shopping in the July Sales….I met some friends and Here we are sitting near the Porxada in Granollers having a few beers and enjoying the evening sunshine. Tiffany took the photo so she isn’t in it! What a shame.



Sunday

~ Kate Wilson ~ 4 Comments

Today……..I didn’t sew the curtains, I didn’t go to Barcelona for the Indignats demonstration, I didn’t study Catalan for my exam on tuesday, I didn’t succeed in sending a blog post from my ‘smarter than me’ phone.  I also didn’t manage to speak to my sister or any of the friends I tried to ring, I didn’t eat lunch and I didn’t run or do yoga or the 20 sit-ups that I imagine doing every day.

I also didn’t smoke – it’s been more than a month now!
Today………I went for a walk with Duna through the quiet streets in the centre of town and ended up having two coffees and a chocolate pastry while reading my book in the sunshine. I watched hundreds of people stream out of the church and wondered what they had been doing. I also spoke to my brother, cooked lentils for supper, washed the floor, started reading yet another book (now 5 at the same time) Women Who Run With Wolves, watched the news in Catalan and hardly understood a word. And I wrote this post here, hopefully with a drawing, which I will do now!
And that, said John, is that.

Trip to town

~ Kate Wilson ~ 3 Comments

Suddenly there is a backlog of stories to tell and photos to show. I don’t know where to start nor do I want to write several posts all at once and overwhelm you!
So I will begin with now and work backwards, hoping to get round eventually to some of the interesting things which happened weeks ago and but have been waiting patiently in the wings for me to find the right moment to write about them.
I went to Barcelona for 24 hours and came back today to the cooler air of Granollers.
Summer has arrived at last!  It was my first night sleeping under just a sheet and still feeling too hot.
I went up yesterday to dance some tango in the park. After meeting friends near Arc de Triumph we walked to Ciutadella and found the gates closed.
Strange.
Dogs waiting for their evening stroll

Policemen and cars inside

People were slowly gathering and some sat down to block the traffic. At last I remembered it was a protest, a gathering of the indignats who have been camping out in many towns as well as in Plaça Catalunya (and Granollers) to remind us all of the lack of true democracy which allows politicians and bankers to create laws to suit their own interests

 And calling for the dismissal of those who ordered the police violence on May 27th

We found the other tango dancers and decided to move to the Born to dance in the street

 On the way passing crowds of protesters arriving to lobby the Catalan government and keep up the pressure against the huge cuts in public services. This mornings newspapers had photos of massive crowds later in the night but we saw only the beginning

After dancing, (with eyes open for once as I kept my eye on the bags which felt more vulnerable than when we are in the enclosed space of La Glorieta,) we went for some tapas and a drink

Full of locals and tourists (see above?)  the place was very welcoming, a cava bottle brought out regularly to fill our glasses and the food was delicious

I don’t want to say where it was – it was busy enough already – but if you really want to know then leave me a comment and I’ll tell you! Those little cheese filled peppers were very very nice.
This morning, a visit with Oreneta to a wonderful exhibition in CCCB which as well as teaching me lots of interesting things I didn’t know about Trieste, also was a great example of how to create an inspirational space about things which could be quite dry and boring!
James Joyce spent some time in Trieste and finished writing the Dubliners there! And have you ever seen his letters to Nora? They are very steamy….
On the way to Passeig de Gracia and the train home I had a look at the acampada in Plaça Catalunya

It seems very settled there now, sharing space with pigeons and tourists, some of whom, perhaps not the pigeons but who knows, also take the time to read the information about the protests. There are beds installed high up in the trees, tents and kitchens, a garden and decorations around the statues in the square. I don’t know where it is all going but it feels good that there are people there, a change from the years of passive acceptance and feeling powerless.
So, that was my trip up to town.