The Cathedral by the Sea

Today I visited Santa Maria del Mar – Saint Mary of the Sea – the incredible 14th century church which is at the centre of the novel Cathedral by the Sea by Ildefonse Falcones.
The title in Catalan is L’Esglesia Del Mar

I am reading this great fat heavy weight of a book in Catalan at the moment – slowly, like the progress of the medieval men who had to carry each stone on their backs from Montjuic to the Born.
The church, which at that time was by the edge of the sea, was designed by the architect Berenguer de Montagut and the foundation stone was laid on 25th March 1329 – the last stone put in place in 1383.

I sat on one of the benches and looked up at the beautiful ceilings. High up, flying between window ledges, there was a bird, too far away to see what it was. I wondered if this was its home or was it trapped?

Not Spain Not France but Catalunya

I wrote about our trip to the hot sulphur bathes at St Thomas in Catalunya Nord but I want to add a few photos `and some more information about this region. Before living here I had never heard of Catalunya Nord. Looking at a map I would have thought the area, sometimes known as Rosselló (Roussillion), and which includes Perpinyà (Perpignan), was in France…..and officially it is but it is also an area claimed by Catalans as part of Catalunya. In 1659 this part of the region was handed over to France as part of the Treaty of the Pyranees. This may seem like a long time ago but an important factor in this is that Català is still spoken here although French is the official language. I felt aware of the Catalan influence here but I also noticed that most people were speaking French. As always, there has been a history of repression of Català – Louis XIV forbade its use in official documents in 1700, it was banned in schools until the 1950s and it was only in 2007 that the Pyranees-Orientale Council proclaimed Català as one of the languages of the department, alongside French and Occitan, to try and promote it in public life and education.
In the market in Prada there was a stall which proclaimed its Catalan identity – we bought some very delicious potatoesThe area is dominated by the mountain called Canigó (Canigou), 2785m We set out to climb to the top but after van problems (not accustomed to climbing so high over 20 km of unmade up road), and the arrival of a thick sheet of mist just as we neared the topwe turned back and will have to go another day to feel the high that rewards you at the summit.This is one of the mountain villages that dot the landscape. Now I knew I wasn’t in ‘Spain’ as it is not surrounded by a horrible ‘urbanisation’ like so many places on this side of the border. Perhaps France has stronger rural protection laws or at least has not had the history of Francoist encouragement of unregulated development.

How long does it take to learn a new language?

It’s time to get serious about studying Català.The date for enrolling (at the Centre for the Normalization of the Catalan Language ) is in my diary and I am determined this time to arrive at 8am and wait in a queue for two hours – that is only to get through the door! It will be my third or fourth attempt to join a Catalan class. These classes are free – paid for by the Generalitat with the aim of increasing knowledge and encouraging the use of Català which of course was suppressed during the Franco dictatorship years. They are also heavily over subscribed. If you want to test your brain power you can click here and discover how hard it is to find out when the courses actually start and how to enrol because it is all written in Català – which is the language you are wanting to learn! Some courses have the first introductory page also available in Castellano but when you search for real practical information it says ‘ this page is only available in Català – ha-ha!’ Or I just imagine that last bit!
But today I started again to do some home study and, while I was avoiding actually getting on with it I searched for interesting articles about how long it takes to learn a new language. I have no idea how fast or slow I am but I know there are some people who manage to get by after only a few months. I am not one of them!
I found this really interesting blog by Tim Ferriss which gives lists of the 100 most used words in spoken and written English. And, I hope he doesn’t mind if I quote him,
individual word frequency will vary between languages (especially pronouns, articles, and possessives), but differences are generally related to frequency rank, rather than complete omission or replacement with a different term. The above two lists are surprisingly applicable to most popular languages.’
I tested myself to see how many of the 100 I can already say in Català! Without cheating with the dictionary. Positive news! There were 13 I didn’t know which means 87/100 which I do!

Another piece of advice on this web site is to only feed yourself with language lessons about things you enjoy or feel passionate about. This is so true – my first words in castellano came from Tango lyrics. Alma. Trasnochando. Ausencia. Abrazo. Soñar. Llorar. Recuerdos.
I need Català for practising acupuncture amongst other things so perhaps I should start by reading books about health and meditation and Feng shui. Or maybe better to focus on family matters as my first point of necessity is at home. At the moment I am reading a book called Diari d’un Jove Maniatic which is a translation of an English book about an adolescent boy and although I don’t understand everything I find I want to pick it up and read every night!
I will also follow Tiffany’s advice to affirm positively things like ‘I speak Catalan’ before studying. I have also started my ‘ten words a day’ notebook for increasing vocabulary. Tim Ferriss says it is better to learn like an adult rather than trying to pick up a language as a child does. It takes years for a child but an adult can learn very fast if they follow tried and tested methods.
And I must stop sliding back into English when the going gets rough. It’s the easy option and especially because English is such a dominant language and many people want to practice it.

Songs

Here are two Catalan songs we did in the summer school. If you click on the titles you can see them sung on YouTube – not by us as I haven’t learnt how to upload videos yet but it gives the idea.
And you can see examples of the clothes children wear when doing messy things in the art class. They are called ‘batas’ but due to the very similar sound between v and b I always heard it as Waters.

Mariners Com Que Bufa El Vent
Mariners com que bufa el vent. Cantem tots una cançoneta, Mariners com que bufa el vent Cantem tots un petit moment I la veu del petit grumet pujarà fins dalt de la cofa. I la veu del petit grumet sonarà com un vell concert.

Mireu Allà Dalt
Mireu allà dalt en els estels que hi ha
És un gros animal Que en bicicleta va
És un elefant I doncs que us penseu!
Té una cua al darrera
i una otra al davant.
This one is done with lovely hand actions and I have sung it many times since – there is something about it that never fails to make me laugh. We did it much better than these people but the only other video I found showed a class of such small ones that they could hardly sing let alone mime.
A rough translation is – Look up there in the stars there is a big animal, riding a bicycle.
It’s an elefant and what to think? It has one tail at the back and another at the front!

Market Day

Thursday is market day here in Granollers and I went to meet a friend for coffee and then to buy some fruit and vegetables for the week. I have always found it a rather stressful experience going alone – the pressure to speak well in front of a queue of onlookers, not knowing all the names of the vegetables, not really having a good grip on grams and kilos (still? I know we use them now in the UK but I continue to think in pounds and ounces)
In my imagination it is an enjoyable experience – all the colours and sounds and smells of the market and the excitement of choosing from such an abundance of choice. But if I am truthful I have always felt a bit shy in French and Catalan markets and spend a long time choosing which stall to use on the basis of whether the stallholder looks friendly rather than on the quality of the produce. And as I don’t like an audience I often chose one which is quiet – and shouldn’t I be doing the opposite?
But…two weeks ago my experience changed. Perhaps with greater confidence in my powers of speech I took my time chosing a stall with the freshest salads and the greatest variety of potatoes. I was relaxed, I chatted, I took my time like all the other people who don’t hurry this important moment of buying food. I enjoyed the experience.
And yesterday when I went with my friend I had an extra game to play – I had learnt as many words in Catalan as I could stuff into my already very full brain and I ordered everything (well almost everything) in Catalan…..with the help of the very friendly stall holder. Here are some of the words with their castellano equivalents – Eng/Cat/Cast.

Courgette – Carbassó – Calabacin
Onion – Ceba – Cebolla
Potato – Patata – Patata
Pepper – Pebrot – Pimiento
Cherry – Cirera – Cereza
Banana – Platan – Platano
Strawberry – Maduixa – Fresa
Apricot Albercoc – Albaricoque
Peach – Préssec – Melocotón