Barcelona

Guess Who Goes to Barcelona?

~ Kate Wilson ~ 2 Comments

If you take the train that travels from Sant Celoni to Barcelona Airport, passing through both Granollers and Barcelona on the way, I challenge you to stay awake.  There must be sleeping gas or a sedative essential oil or an aroma of chamomile tea slowly released into the carriages to make everyone fall gradually asleep or at least go into a deep meditative state

I almost always start nodding off around Mollet and only wake up at Clot-Arago which is a blessing as I have to get off at the next stop, Passeig De Gracia.
Today though, I was in charge of one slightly nervous border collie who was making her first visit to the great city.  I had to stay alert. It was her first ever time on a train!
She wore the muzzle she had practised with on the ferry to the Isles of Scilly and perhaps because of the somnolent atmosphere in the carriage, she was very calm and happy for the whole journey.

After arriving in Barcelona we walked along Carrer Valencia all the way to my friends flat on Diagonal


Bonnie then led the way into the lift and we went up to the third floor.  She spent four hours being a model dog while we had lunch.   Afterwards we walked back down  C/Valencia and, totally in her stride now, when we reached Passeig de Gracia, she happily jumped up onto one of the Pere Falques seats to be photographed

We met another friend for a quick tapas in a bar called Cosmo on Enrique Granados then walked back to the train station to jump on the Sant Celoni train. This time it was much busier but she lay down with her head on her paws, only her pricked ears showing she was watching and noticing everything.
The woman opposite had put her bag down on the floor which I found worrying in case there was a peeing accident (it had been 5 hours since the last one due to a lack of grass in this area of Barcelona) but we arrived in Granollers without incident. People here are always telling me it is unlucky to put your bag on the ground but happily this superstition was proved wrong.
Bonnie is such a good companion and it was lovely to be walking with her down these familiar streets. The dog from Lamorna finally arriving in my favourite city!  I am so proud of her.
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There was only one problem that we need to work on.

Bonnie has always hated skateboards and unfortunately Enrique Granados is a pedestrian street with a lovely slope….for riding down again and again and again…. to the sound of hysterical barking which we now know she can do even through the muzzle!

Bar hopping in Barcelona

~ Kate Wilson ~ 6 Comments

Barcelona for an afternoon and a night.
It’s always a treat and this time was especially good as I saw a friend who I haven’t been able to catch up with for months. She was the first local friend I made in the city – about 6 years ago – and has always been a source of laughs, advice, support and interesting places to visit.
If not for her I would never have found the Hare Krishna vegetarian restaurant near Plaça Reial, or the women’s library near the Palau Musica Catalana, nor the milk bar where I had my first orxata experience. And I would not have stayed for 6 weeks in a tiny flat in Palma Sant Just which is owned by a friend of hers.
So, we met at Drassanes and with the use of her Bicing card we cycled all around Barceloneta and the Ribera.
First we sent to the nudist beach Sant Sebastia for a swim. Only to find that hardly anyone was nude which is very unusual. The next night on the news I saw that the recent law on nudity on the streets has been used to stop people stripping off on the naturist part of the beach. They said there were complaints from ‘the neighbours’  Ummm…..there are no houses there – only the new and incredibly modern and expensive hotel W which sits at the far end of the beach

Possibly the complaints came from that direction?
We went along to take a look at the bar and the vestibule – it is very luxurious and comfortable

At every door there were people guarding the entrances – any old riff raff from the beach definitely not welcome. But we walked confidently by

Afterwards we went for a genuine vermut in one of my favourite bars near the Barceloneta market

It was very busy so we just stood at the counter and eyed up the cheeses and sausages.

At every stop we put back the bicycle in the stand

then took another when we were ready to go. Bicing is such a convenient and sensible system and the promenade by the beach is the perfect place to go spinning along with the wind in your hair.
Next stop was a Kebab cafe for falafels and hummus …..and a couple of beers!
Still not too wobbly we managed to negotiate the traffic and get to the narrow streets of the Ribera, the area close to Santa Maria del Mar. It was Saturday night and everywhere was buzzing. It’s not easy winding around people as they dither and dawdle along but bikes and people seem to mix fairly well in these tiny streets. My friend could ride along, snaking between people but I was less practised and had to keep jumping on and off and ringing my bell.
We went into a bar – Valentina on Regomir – which is full of armchairs and bookcases. You can take books away if you bring in new ones so the titles are constantly being added to and refreshed

We found a comfortable corner, pulled out some books, ordered wine and a mojito and settled down to read in peace for an hour. After such a busy evening it was nice to just rest and relax with a friend with no need to talk.

Next morning I went back to my favourite square for a coffee and croissant – It’s just beside the Esglesia Sant Just i Pastor which is a 4th century church I often visit for quiet meditation.
I am soon setting off on travels to France and Italy and then on to Cornwall and won’t be back here for a few months. It feels strange to know that when I return, hopefully with two dear dogs in the back of the van, it will be harder to make these short trips to Barcelona. So every moment of this one felt extra precious and sweet.

Speaking of journeys – I forgot that we started off in the Maritime Museum with a coffee and chocolate croissant. There is an exhibition there now about a big storm that happened in the Mediterranean in 1911 – a year I always notice as it is when my mother was born. I don’t know what the connection was with the exhibit in the courtyard of a ship and its passengers but it made a good photo!

I feel am setting off on a new adventure, waving to friends and family as my boat sets sail to goodness knows where. If all goes to plan and I return to live with three dogs in Granollers – I will be Dog Woman!

Hanging out Washing in Public?

~ Kate Wilson ~ 7 Comments

This week was very busy and although I took photos and thought about things to write about here it seemed impossible to find time to actually do it.   And recently I have been having a battle with myself about the blog – what is the point of it?  who reads it?  is it just a self indulgence? 
One of the busy – and nice  – things this week was that two friends arrived from England and spent five days here in Granollers. Or, to be more honest they stayed in Granollers but spent a lot of time in Barcelona.  We were working in the summer school so this was a good arrangement but it did make me realise that when I think a visitor is coming here to my home town, in fact many times they are imagining a holiday in Barcelona!  It’s better to know this before you get disappointed.
I went up to town with them one day.  We walked through the old streets around Princessa, looking for shade and finding places I have never noticed before like this old convent which is now a civic centre

After seeing Santa Maria del Mar where I had a sleep in one of the pews, we had lunch in tiny Bodega Palma for the menu price of 7.50 – very good in this area! Then I wanted to find the place where you can have your feet massaged by little fish nibbling your toes in a tank. Two friends gave me a voucher for my birthday and it seemed like the sort of thing you don’t do alone – more fun with a couple of companions in tow. But the streets were hot and narrow and we wandered for what seemed like hours

 I felt responsible for my friends who were looking for some expert guidance and I realised that when I go to Barcelona I tend to follow my nose rather than a set plan. This is fine for me but doesn’t work when you have others trudging behind you. So Carrer Correu Vell…..see you next visit!
We then went and walked up the Ramblas in the full heat of the sun which is not my idea of a good time in any language.
However I did get a photo of the Miro mosaic

We also managed to buy two pairs of cotton gloves in this lovely shop of sheets and towels

 You can see from the door that it is not Catalan – the sign says Cerrado and not Tancat.

One of my friends said how great it was to see some of the places that are now in my life. I asked her if she had not ever seen this blog – that there are lots of photos of Granollers and my favourite parts of Barcelona.  She said that no she doesn’t like blogs and the internet and facebook and all that speaking with strangers and talking about your private life in public. It was interesting as she is very much a book person, which surely is also a way of communicating with many other people,  but somehow the internet brings out a different response.  What I find liberating and exciting for her is deeply suspicious.
If you are reading this then perhaps you are more like me but if you know what she meant then do let me know…..what is it about blogs that makes some people feel so wary?

Pau Claris dancing the Highland Fling

~ Kate Wilson ~ 1 Comment

That same day at the Arc de Triumph I noticed this statue of Pau Claris.

Before that moment Pau Claris was no more than the name of a street in Barcelona to me.
Pau is Paul in English but I don’t always remember that.
I liked the way he is standing here, as if dancing,  but still was no wiser about who he was.
So I looked him up when I got home and discovered  he was alive between 1586 and 1641 and was a lawyer and a clergyman and the 94th President of Catalunya.


He was in power  during a period of strife with the Spanish crown and in 1641 proclaimed the Catalan Republic under the protection of France. There is a strong possibility that he died from arsenic poisoning that same year.

Trip to town

~ Kate Wilson ~ 3 Comments

Suddenly there is a backlog of stories to tell and photos to show. I don’t know where to start nor do I want to write several posts all at once and overwhelm you!
So I will begin with now and work backwards, hoping to get round eventually to some of the interesting things which happened weeks ago and but have been waiting patiently in the wings for me to find the right moment to write about them.
I went to Barcelona for 24 hours and came back today to the cooler air of Granollers.
Summer has arrived at last!  It was my first night sleeping under just a sheet and still feeling too hot.
I went up yesterday to dance some tango in the park. After meeting friends near Arc de Triumph we walked to Ciutadella and found the gates closed.
Strange.
Dogs waiting for their evening stroll

Policemen and cars inside

People were slowly gathering and some sat down to block the traffic. At last I remembered it was a protest, a gathering of the indignats who have been camping out in many towns as well as in Plaça Catalunya (and Granollers) to remind us all of the lack of true democracy which allows politicians and bankers to create laws to suit their own interests

 And calling for the dismissal of those who ordered the police violence on May 27th

We found the other tango dancers and decided to move to the Born to dance in the street

 On the way passing crowds of protesters arriving to lobby the Catalan government and keep up the pressure against the huge cuts in public services. This mornings newspapers had photos of massive crowds later in the night but we saw only the beginning

After dancing, (with eyes open for once as I kept my eye on the bags which felt more vulnerable than when we are in the enclosed space of La Glorieta,) we went for some tapas and a drink

Full of locals and tourists (see above?)  the place was very welcoming, a cava bottle brought out regularly to fill our glasses and the food was delicious

I don’t want to say where it was – it was busy enough already – but if you really want to know then leave me a comment and I’ll tell you! Those little cheese filled peppers were very very nice.
This morning, a visit with Oreneta to a wonderful exhibition in CCCB which as well as teaching me lots of interesting things I didn’t know about Trieste, also was a great example of how to create an inspirational space about things which could be quite dry and boring!
James Joyce spent some time in Trieste and finished writing the Dubliners there! And have you ever seen his letters to Nora? They are very steamy….
On the way to Passeig de Gracia and the train home I had a look at the acampada in Plaça Catalunya

It seems very settled there now, sharing space with pigeons and tourists, some of whom, perhaps not the pigeons but who knows, also take the time to read the information about the protests. There are beds installed high up in the trees, tents and kitchens, a garden and decorations around the statues in the square. I don’t know where it is all going but it feels good that there are people there, a change from the years of passive acceptance and feeling powerless.
So, that was my trip up to town.