A taste of Catalan sausage

The traditional Christmas dinner here is Escudella i Carn d’Olla.

It is a kind of stew into which go chicken, pork, beef, sausage, potatoes, carrots, onions, leeks, celery, checkpeas and large pasta shells.
First you eat the stock with the pastas as a soup. Then there are courses of the meat and vegetables and chickpeas. Of course everything has been boiled up with the meat.  When I say pork by the way I mean more than just the usual parts – there are also trotters, muzzle, tail, ears.

I am 90% vegetarian by the way which makes Christmas lunch an interesting experience.

Thank god for turrons and cava!

24 Hours in Barcelona

I never forget how lucky I am to be able to do this.
Jump on a train and after 45 minutes I can arrive in the middle of Barcelona on Passeig de Gracia.
For those of you who always think of me basking in the sunshine, I just need to tell you – today it rained – all the time.

But I still went to Barcelona for the day

You have to start the day with a little something

Then I went to visit Santa Maria Del Mar.

We are reading a novel about the life and times of a boy who helped with the construction of this church – all the stones had to be carried from the quarries at Montjuic down to the site near the harbour where the cathedral was being built.

Una catedral construida pel poble i per al poble en la Barcelona medieval és l’escenari d’una trepidant història d’intriga, violència i passió.’

I am amazing myself by reading it in Catalan- missing some of the nuances but understanding the general drift. I am very slow and not only because of the language – it is not a book that I imagine has a happy ending!

Medieval life was hard.

Today the doors were closed so I walked around the outside.
Drinking fountains opposite the front door.  I expect when the stone carriers arrived they were always thirsty

Something that looked like a baseball net on one wall but I imagine it was an old lamp holder.

And at the back the view up to the old Born market hall.

Next stop was the Santa Llucia Christmas market to search for small figures to decorate the cake. Most of the stalls sell all that you need for creating a Pessebre – the Catalan nativity scene – including the famous caganers.

The tackiest ones have piles of Tiòs ready for December 24th

All day I hunted for these very comfortable house shoes

This shoe shop was very stylish and friendly but didn’t have what I wanted.

In the end I found them back in Granollers!
Where I also caught sight of Santa Claus shopping in the rain.





 

 

Going shopping

Walking to the shops is a daily activity here and on Thursdays when it is market day everyone comes out accompanied by their trusty shopping trolley. I have always liked wheelie baskets and had one in Penzance which I rarely used as everyone teased me about being a little old lady. Here however it is normal to have one and you have a lot of choice about model and design. When I first arrived in Barcelona in July 2009 I used to borrow one from my friend and became very attached to it.
How much easier to potter around the shops and carry stuff back to the flat without plastic bag handles digging into your fingers.

In most shops you have to leave your trolley at the front door and in supermarkets there are special parking stations with locks in case you worry about theft.
For a while I used a small one which was a free gift from the optitions.

But the wheels made such a racquet on the pavement that everyone stared at me (even more than they usually do for my fair hair and blue eyes) and I couldn’t hear the music on my ipod.
There is another one here at home which is interesting and practical but also a bit bulky and heavy for everyday shopping.

 So I bought myself a new one. We walk together in total silence and I feel I have a companion on my shopping trips!

This Time of Year

I’ve been busy this last week getting ready for a Christmas party and also making and sending off cards. I have always preferred receiving cards to presents at Christmas but one unexpected result of moving to another country is that you don’t get so many lovely little envelopes dropping through the front door. People here don’t have this custom at all so if you are someone who hates the chore then this is a great place to live!  But for me it is one of my favourite parts of Christmas.
I tried to do it all early this year, making my own cards and printing out sheets of labels with my address to cunningly stick on the back. Desperate measures!

 The first two that arrived here were both pictures of hares – next year is the Chinese year of the Rabbit so perhaps this is the connection. I don’t know if it is a general trend or just a coincidence.
This is my second Christmas here (xmas 2009 see here)  and I found to my surprise that I was feeling a little nostalgic for homey things. All those years of wanting to escape the Christmas pressure and yet here I am after such a short time finding that I want a Christmas tree and crackers.

So I invited a few English speaking friends with their Catalan partners to come and have dinner and have a Fusion Christmas party. We put together ideas of what we like to do at Christmas and ended up with a lovely evening last night with songs like the Twelve Days of Christmas and El Noi de la Mare. There is a story that this Catalan song was the last one played by Segovia before his death, the music was on his music stand.
We had a passebre, beat presents out of the Tió (as you see we have the most basic Tió possible, a log with a blanket over it which Duna decided was her best friend), ate a vegetarian roast dinner with Christmas pudding and custard, pulled crackers, drank Cava and were too full to eat a homemade Christmas cake, in true Christmas tradition.  I felt the Catalan male partners were a bit bemused by it all (and especially by the typed up timetable of events!!! very unmediterranean)  but the female party planners were very happy with how it all went.

 Preparing the room for the party was almost as good as the event itself. I found rolls and rolls of beautiful silky fabric from the old days of the textile factory and made drapes and decorations to warm the room.

 This time of year also brings work for circus and theatre people. Many towns run workshops for children before and after Christmas. Getting ready for one of these we had to disentangle this wonderful octopus of ribbons which creates a circus tent space when attached to the walls. We are approaching the Solstice and the longest night but I feel I have been playing in a world of colour