Goodbye 2014

We got back from the skiing trip on December 27th and did a quick turn around, leaving again the next day for the Costa Brava.

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Oh what a life!  I hear you say.

Yes it is great to have these places on our doorstep and I love travelling around but actually the ski trip was more to please the Resident Adolescent and I was much happier when driving up the AP7 to Figueres. I knew I would be able to relax in the calm beauty of Mas Sant Nicolau and it would be a good way to end this year.

We were sitting in a cafe near the port of Escala today, eating tapas and enjoying the wild sea-scape from a warm dry table and we talked about powerful moments of 2014.

Here are some of mine, in photos

January

The arrival of Phoenix, rescued from a life under a car in Peralada

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February

The day Bonnie died. She was very sick and disappeared in the early hours of the morning as we waited until it was time to ring the vet. Just as I began to fall to pieces after searching the woods for hours, I heard she was had been found at a  nearby farm.  It was like waking up from a nightmare, and remains my strongest moment from the year.

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March

My friend Janet came to visit.  We went to bathe in the mineral waters of Caldes de Montbui. The Balnearis are hot mineral water spas and there are still many to explore here!

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April

Minorca!  How can I choose just one photo?  It was all a paradise

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May

We went on the Tren dels Llacs and Thich Nhat Hanh came to lead a meditation in Barcelona but I have to choose two images of Lydia, my friend Tiffany’s daughter,  who has been a delight and a blessing all this year.

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June

I was in the UK and saw so many friends and family I can’t chose one day as better than another.  A wonderful month with one cloud.  My old cat Maisie died and I seriously fell out with one of my neighbours.  It made me question if I can live in that house again.    But nearby  the  3000 year old Merry Maidens give a sense of perspective.  See also the Scottish flag?

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July

Sunny days in Cornwall. I’m going to cheat and have three photos!

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The Barbara Hepworth garden in St Ives with my friend Elizabeth

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Then I flew back to Granollers for a week before  we drove up to Santander via the Basque Country.  We  danced a little tango in this pavilion in Pamplona

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August

Visiting cave paintings near Santander. There are still many caves open with original art

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September

Lots of work in the field at Lamorna. A wall had to be moved and so the digger came!

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We drove down through France were in Granollers to watch the Scottish Independence Referendum on TV.  I was disappointed with the result but not too surprised.

October

Amma came back to Granollers and I overcame my fear of wearing white. I started my project of recording what I am wearing by taking photos as often as possible and putting them on Instagram.

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And my sister came back to visit us!  We went to my favourite part of Catalunya – the Costa Brava!     I never stop trying to imagine ways I can live there.

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November

There was a vote on Independence in Catalunya – not an official one this time. This photo is of the huge demonstration in Barcelona in September calling for the right to vote.

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and then I went back to Cornwall to help some friends.

I don’t usually go in November so it was both strange and wonderful

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December

Here we are at the end of this year. My strongest moment was losing Bonnie.  We have just returned from Sant Nicolau which was the place she died, and where my older dog Blue is also buried. We walked the walk that Bonnie took when she disappeared and ended up at the farm where she was found. There is an Iberic Village there being  excavated.  The resident dog welcomed us back. She was good to Bonnie too so it was nice to go back and thank her

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I know that the change of year means leaving Bonnie in 2014 and it is time for me to walk on into the new mysterious and full of promise year of 2015

I have been sharing old photos on Facebook with my family and here is one of me, reminding me of time passing, of the vitality we enjoy when we are young and of how important it is to never stop living in the moment, exploring the world, laughing and being happy

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Bon Any Nou to all my readers and friends

 

All about Torrons and how to buy the best!

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Every year just before Christmas I go to the Correus in Granollers to send off several slim rectangular packages to the UK.    Each one is a box containing a slab of Torró, a very special sweet which is an important part of the traditional Christmas here in Catalunya.

I sometimes wonder if the recipients know what to do with them or do they end up at the back of the cupboard as sometimes happens to me with unfamiliar foods?

Before coming to Barcelona I had never heard of  Torrons. It was probably at the first family Christmas dinner that I discovered how delicious and mouth-wateringly moreish they are.

What is Torró?

As with everything in Catalonia there are two options for the name depending which language you are speaking.  Torró in Catalan or Turrón in Spanish but it is the same sweet delicacy a bit like nougat or halva, typically made of almonds, honey, sugar, and egg white, and shaped into either a rectangular tablet or a round cake.

It is a very old confection which originates from Arab cuisine.  Evidence shows they were being made 500 years ago in Xixona (Jijona), a small town about 30 miles  north of Alicante.   Xixona’s economy is focused on the production of torrons and there is a museum  there showing the history and how it is made.   A friend told me that he went to Xixona as a child in the late 70’s and was disappointed to find it wasn’t the little town of his dreams,  filled with small family businesses making torrons by hand with bee hives in the back yards, scented by almond blossom.  Instead it was an industrial town full of factories  producing thousands of kilos of torrons to be sent all over Spain.

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According to legend, honey from bees that drink nectar from wildflowers growing on the mountains around Xixona is an important part of the recipe.   That makes sense to me – even the most built up cities have beautiful wild places just outside the commercial zones.

Every ingredient should be of the highest quality and although I have found no information on this,  I  am hoping that the eggs come from free range organic chickens which scratch and peck around rural farms in the foothills of those mountains. We can but dream ……….

Types of torró and how to chose the best

Torró de Xixona is soft and the almonds have been ground up to form a paste

Torró d’Alicant is hard and brittle and you can see the almonds inside

There are several different qualities of torró.

Strict rules control whether torrons may be labeled with “Suprema” or “Extra.” The best quality is “Suprema” and to get that label, the soft turró must contain at least 60% almonds and the hard, 64% almonds

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Apparently  there is also “Estàndar” (standard) and “Popular”  but we didn’t find any. If it is of lower quality usually it doesn’t say anything on the packet.

Knowledgeable shoppers will look at the ingredients on the package label when they go to buy  Torrons for  Christmas dinner. You don’t serve just any old Torró on such a special day!

If it looks cheap and cheerful then it probably is.  Check out the amount of almonds.  The best ones have 60% or more.  And there should definitely not be other ingredients like palm oil or E numbers. In general if it is cheap the quality won’t be as good.

Chocolate torró  is delicious and a big favorite and it too has qualities including “Extrafino” or “Fino”  depending on the percentage of cocoa and milk it contains.   Some of the chocolate torrons have dried fruits and nuts mixed in and are increasingly popular.

Christmas is the time to eat Torrons and at the end of the meal large plates are brought out with lots of little cubes of  Torró laid out invitingly or built up into a tower or pyramid.

Serve with Cava of course!

Nowadays there are many more versions than just the traditional Alicant or Xixona,  including ones with candied fruit, chocolate, praline, coconut and also the one with egg yolk or Gema.

Where to buy Torrons?

All the supermarkets have huge displays of Torrons  but the quality is variable.  Follow the suggestions above to help chose a good one.  Surely I don’t need to suggest you avoid ones that are made by Nestle?

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But the best places to buy are the specialist shops.  They also make Orxata and ice creams. These shops will have the word Jijonero in their name.

In Granollers the best place to buy Torró is Cal Jijonero in Carrer Corró.

This family has been making them since 1933.  There are now two Jijoneros run by people from the same family but after a dispute they split the business, which is the reason there is one in Anselm Clavé and the other round the corner in Carrer Corró.

The one in Carrer Corró keeps the reputation for being the best but you’d have to try them both and decide for yourself.

How to serve and preserve your Torró

If you receive a packet of Torró as a gift here is what to do.

Cut off a chunk, lay it on a board and chop it into little cubes and lay them on a pretty plate.

You can put some neules in a glass in the centre.  Don’t forget the cava…..

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You don’t have to eat it all at once – leave the rest in the packet and it will keep for some weeks – or so we think but we have never managed to resist eating it all within a few days.

This one is Torró d’Alicant.   Caution for anyone with teeth which might break as it is hard. But once in your mouth it starts to melt and you come back for more, and more…..

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No need to keep in the fridge, just store it somewhere cool.  And Enjoy!

 

Skiing at Christmas

We have come away for Christmas!

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It was no easy task but we were helped by the fact that the Resident Adolescent is working in Carrefour and only has two days free.

I have written before about my struggles with Catalan Christmas and the family rituals that are expected here so I won’t go into it again but I do need to say that when I write  ‘we have come away for christmas’ it is written with a flourish.

By the way, I am coming to a far greater understanding of how incredibly difficult it is to create Christmas rituals with a new partner from a different culture. We have tried to include everything from both our worlds – beating the Tió, Christmas carols, Christmas tree, Christmas stockings, roast veggie dinner, Escudella i carn d’olla, Sant Esteve, Boxing Day, turrons, Christmas pudding, Christmas cards, and so on.

The result?  Often it is just exhausting, frustrating and perplexing.

We came away early on Christmas morning and I hadn’t realised the important of opening presents on Christmas Eve so had gone to bed. I wanted to bring the presents with us but my partner didn’t realise the important of opening them on Christmas Day so said we should leave them at home to open when we get back.  Just one of many misunderstandings.

But coming away helps a lot. We are in a new place with no expectations or obligations.  We came to the Pyranees to a place called Font Romeu which is officially in France but if you ask any Catalan they will say it is in Catalunya Nord.   We are staying in a small hotel called Hotel Le Romarin.  It is simple, family run, friendly and comfortable.  Clean with no frills. Lovely views. Good wifi in the lounge area.

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Yesterday was Christmas Day and it was surprising how many other people had the same idea to get away and go skiing.

I don’t know how to ski – I have tried twice and enjoyed it but after an hour had enough of falling over and struggling to get up. As it was Christmas I went along yesterday to the ski station up high and I spent a few hours sitting in the warm cafeteria watching other people glide gracefully down the slopes. Ski resorts are funny places, not at all what I imagined in my dreams. A bit like camp sites they have a tendency to attract clutter and signs telling you what not to do. It must be wonderful to take the lift up to the top and be in the white clean snow-scene then to zig-zag competently downhill.  But the lower part is where the snow is dirty, children are screaming and plastic cups and crisp packets line the edges of the forest.

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Today I stayed in the village  and had my Boxing Day walk up to visit the Hermitage of Font Romeu. It turns out to be on yet another of the ways that lead to Santiago de Compostella.

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Romeu means pilgrim in Catalan so Font Romeu is the fountain of the pilgrim.  They found a 12th Century statue carved in wood of the Black Virgin near here which is kept in the Hermitage until September 8th when it is carried in a parade down to the church at Odeillo.  If I want to see it then I must go there.

Black virgins are an important feature of Catalan spiritual life. One of the most famous is the Black Virgin of Montserrat.  Of course there are many stories of the black virgin being the mother goddess from a much earlier pre christian age. Here is an interesting site about the Black Madonna.

I have started my training for doing the Camino de Santiago in the spring but I need to get a bit more serious about it. Today’s walk was just over 6km and at that rate I’ll need a year to complete the pilgrimage.

 

 

Light at the end of the Tunnel

Last week I had a bad cold and stayed in bed for a few days.

Then on Saturday night I couldn’t resist going to Barcelona as planned, to see my friend Cristina and to watch the show Fira at the Ateneu de Nou Barris.

I wrapped up warm and we went in the car. It was my first trip out since getting sick.

The show  was good. Not brilliant but fine. I have seen more circus performances and clowns and acrobats since I have lived here than ever before in my whole life put together.  One of the women acrobats was quite amazing – her balance was perfect and her centre so strong she seemed to fly through the air, defying gravity.  I allowed myself a very brief fantasy that I could have done this if I had kept up with gymnastics and ballet when I was young.  The theatre was hot and I was sweaty and thirsty so  when the performance  finished so we stayed on for drinks in the large bar IMG_3999 There were lots of people. It was great to be back in Barcelona surrounded by a bit of night life.  The Ateneu of Nou Barris is quite a trendy place and we even saw David Fernandez,  the member for Parliament for CUP (Candidatura d’Unitat Popular)  a left wing independent party.

There were two DJs playing music and when they started putting on tracks from the 1960’s I suddenly had a huge burst of energy and started not only dancing but singing the songs.  It is amazing how one day you can be too ill to go downstairs to make a cup of tea and then 24 hours later a blast of energy from ‘who knows where’ courses through your body, almost lifting you off the ground with its power.

That in itself is amazing but for me what was wonderful was that I seemed to have sweated out or expelled along with the virus, my usual shyness and self consciousness.

I felt fine and I danced and sang without feeling silly at all. Something has shifted.  A good feeling.

So with this new healthier energy what am I doing?

The house has been decorated for Christmas. This is the first time I have done this here and it has made a big difference to how I feel at home. I love the lights of the Christmas tree and race downstairs every morning to switch them on. We needed light and here it is!

I have booked a Spanish lesson on the website Italki for Thursday afternoon. I want to improve my Spanish as well as Catalan so this is my first step in doing this.

I am going to do a blogging course in January.  After five years of doing it alone I want to get help.IMG_4090

And lastly a little story of supermarkets in Catalunya.

I went to Lidls today in search of mince pies (there were none) and faced my usual frustration at the cash desk.  It is not the custom here to help you pack your bags or even to wait until you have done it.  All my shopping was piling up quickly, waiting to be packed but the cashier wanted me to pay straight away. I know what would happen next – she would serve the other people in the queue and I would end up flustered and stressed trying to grab my things while they were trying to do the same.

So I said “No. I need to pack first then pay”

She said ” No. First you pay and then you can pack”

We were both smiling and it was friendly but we both spoke firmly.

I said “No. First we can pack my bags –  it will be quicker if you help me – and then I will pay”

And then she just started to pack my bags. There was no problem. No stress of an argument.   She wasn’t in a bad mood with me or even irritated.  I wondered at my own determination but also noticed that I had spoken firmly but without judgement or annoyance.  She could have said no and I would have left it there.

She thanked me at the end and I thanked her.

That is just one tiny fragment of my day but it seems that recently this sort of thing is happening more and more.  I think perhaps I am speaking out more freely, and saying more honestly what I think and feel.  I always wanted to do that but until now it took an enormous effort to get past the old blocks. That’s why I say, something has shifted and I think it might just be that some of those blocks have been moved out of the way.   When I don’t have to push past blocks I can say things so much more kindly and gently.

And if I have finally learned how to do that – then maybe there is hope for us all!

 

 

Another Catalan Christmas – heigh ho!

Well I felt so much better after writing that last post that today I was singing in the rain as I walked into town for breakfast with Tiffany. (Just had to say that, not breakfast at Tiffany’s but it’s close)

Granollers is lovely in the rain. Everyone has umbrellas except the Moroccan woman I saw in the Porxada who must have forgotten hers so had improvised with a plastic bag on her head over her veil. (This isn’t her by the way, I wasn’t quick enough to grab a photo!)

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Look back over Christmas past posts if you want to see how I have celebrated here in the last five years. But to save you the trouble I will tell you that each and every year I have struggled to feel Chistmassey.

There are celebrations and there are lots of lovely Catalan Christmas traditions – the Christmas markets especially Santa Lucia in Barcelona, turrons, cava, beating the Tió, more turrons, Catalan Christmas carols like     El Noi de La Mare.

But I miss feeling part of the Christmas feeling in Cornwall.  Everyone getting excited about buying their Christmas tree, the Mousehole lights, carols in pubs, mince pies, mulled wine, log fires, Boxing Day…..oh how I long for Boxing Day!   Here we have Sant Esteve and it is not especially relaxing.

Since coming here I have not decorated the house. Not even once!  I had the feeling it wasn’t really important to people here and anyway,  what’s the point if you are going to go out for dinner on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day?

But today a good friend said “Just do it!”  “Do it for you if no-one else wants it”

So I did.

And it was amazing how quickly I felt excited and happy. I got a glass of Vermut and put on some Christmas music.  Brought out the box of goodies and raided the wonderful ribbon shelves out the back of the house.

I bought some things in the new shop Tiger

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The room’s not finished yet but here we go

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I am looking forward to a lovely Christmas now. We are having our usual anglo-saxon Christmas party on December 23rd with Tiffany and her family. I brought over crackers and mince pies and Xmas pudding from Cornwall and as we are all vegetarian we are going to have mushroom and cashew nut roast with loads of roast vegetables and oven baked brussel sprouts.

Then we have the Tió party on December 24th with presents and cava and turrons.

And on Christmas Day the three of us are off skiing!  Me, Mr Catalan man and the Resident Adolescent!