I want the chocolate.
The chocolate is in my bag
I want the chocolate!
Wait until the train comes.
I am waiting for the train
and the chocolate.
Author: Kate Wilson
The Mystery of the Candle Shop
A few doors down from here there is a shop selling candles called Cereria Fátima. I pass it several times every day and when it is open it is always full of people. Sometimes they are queuing out onto the street.
Funny! Granollers doesn’t seem that sort of town. Not like Totnes or Glastonbury, it’s hard to believe that it is full of people who want to buy crystals and prayer bells and little glass fairies.
For months it was a mystery to me until I mentioned it to a friend and she told me that Fatima is a kind of spiritual advisor. You buy a candle, take it home with detailed instructions about how to burn it and conserve the resulting wax. The next day you come back with the wax and Fatima interprets it and answers your questions.
I haven’t tried it yet.
That will be Part Two!
What I like is how open and relaxed everyone is about being seen in the shop, having their neighbours listen to their problems and the answers that Fatima gives. It’s a social experience.
I will have to think of a question (or chose one of the many there are) and take an interpreter along so I understand the answer.
We will return to the Candle Shop some time in the future…….
11th stone – changing form
Daily exposure to things that are new and different is changing the shape of who I am.
Naming the Parts
WARNING Those of a delicate nature should stop reading now. This post contains images of raw meat and chicken body parts.
This is the story of an ex-vegetarian buying meat, being traumatised and finally learning the lesson that if you face up to something and just get on with it then it is not as bad as you imagined.
So, for those who are still here…..
One of our neighbouring shops is a butcher (doesn’t that sound so much nicer if you pronounce it ‘badger’ as many people here do?)
I don’t normally go into butchers unless I am looking for bones for my dogs but recently I have starting visiting this one. I was vegetarian from age 14 until I started eating fish in Cornwall and since coming to Catalunya I have opened up to the occasional chicken dish and sometimes, out of food desperation, eaten the lentil stews that come with bits of ham included. So, I am a novice at meat buying and in Cornwall I usually bought it nicely packaged in the supermarket and only if it promised it was local, organic and free range.
Here the supermarkets have mass produced and intensively farmed meats. I have never seen free range eggs in a supermarket either – for that you must go to a health shop or know someone who has hens. So when I want to buy chicken breasts I go to Cal Treto and ask for ‘pit de pollastre de pagès’ and they usually have some waiting in trays under the counter.
Just before Christmas I went in and stumbled through my usual request – they are kind to me as I am a neighbour but it still doesn’t feel easy. They didn’t have any ‘already prepared’ and after asking how many breasts I wanted she dived down out of sight and reappeared with two enormous chickens, clearly reared especially for christmas and with everything intact except for their feathers.
I watched in horror as she ripped them apart, pulled out their innards, sliced off breasts as big as dinner plates and gradually accumulated a pile of ‘bits’ which she insisted I would want to take home so that I could make a ‘caldo’. I tried to explain that I had never made a ‘caldo’ and wouldn’t know where to begin even if I decided to have a go. I mumbled that I was a vegetarian. She ignored this as it was clearly not true.
She sliced and chopped and ripped and tussled with these two birds – weighed them and it looked as if I was going to pay 45 euros for four chicken breasts. I didn’t know how to stop it all – I felt an utter idiot for not being able to make the most basic dish – chicken stock and when you can’t explain yourself in words sometimes you just have to accept the general flow of events. And I realised the idiocy of being a sort of vegetarian who would eat only the ‘nice’ bits and waste the rest of the body.
Thankfully she kept the legs for someone else to buy and I eventually left the shop with four breasts and a large bag of unidentified bits. If I couldn’t use them she insisted, my mother in law would.
Back in the kitchen I stared at the bag. I couldn’t throw it away.
I had to accept the challenge otherwise these chickens would have died in vain.
I turned to Delia for help and got my camera out so I could record the process.
First I laid out everything for identification. I put aside parts which I thought Duna would like, dogs can eat raw chicken vertebrae although cooked bones are dangerous.
Then I proceeded to make a ‘caldo’ and froze it in several pots, pretending to myself that one day I would actually do something with it. Chicken stock is very useful and good for when you are recovering from flu, I told myself. I pretended to be a Catalan housewife, doing the most normal and everyday thing in the world.
In the end, I felt proud that it was another fear faced up to – it was the most respectful thing I could do for the chickens and if I was prepared to eat the breasts then I knew I must be willing to deal with the liver and kidneys and stomach and spine and those beautiful red crests.
Thermal Baths
I first heard about mineral bathes when I read Shirley MacLaine’s book Don’t Fall off the Mountain where she describes amazing experiences in the Peruvian Andes. Later I went travelling there and after walking the Inca Way to Machu Picchu our group was taken to a beautiful place called Aguas Calientes which I still dream about. It was a small outdoor pool with very basic changing facilities and a little bar selling beer. We went at night and bathed our walk weary bodies in the hot mineral waters while gazing up at the stars and mountain peaks all around us. It has become one of the places I travel to in my mind when I want to feel at peace.
Since then I have always felt drawn to places with natural hot springs. I felt very excited when I discovered that Catalunya has many towns and villages with balnearis – some are more basic and some are pure luxury. I wrote before about the Safareig in Caldes de Montbui and also about our visit to the Bains St Thomas in Catalunya Nord.
The idea of going to laze around in hot bathes on a regular basis could seem a bit self indulgent so I decided the best idea is to write about them, thus bringing in the justification of ‘work’ to my cunning plan to visit them all!
This week we went to La Garriga to see what happens in the Gran Hotel Balneario Blancafort. It is a huge complex – a very up market hotel with the thermal mineral spa inside, gardens dotted with sculptures, a large indoor carpark and apartments for holiday rental. We rolled up in a tiny Peugot, carrying backpacks and looking not at all like the sort of people who would actually stay here. But everything from the first moment at reception was perfect and welcoming. You can have a two hour stay in the spa for 38euros and after showing us around they left us to relax in peace and do things in our own time. There are several large swimming pools, some with different temperatures, some with water jets for muscle massage. Saunas and hot humid rooms, showers with special sprays pointing at different parts of your body. A semicircular walkway where round pebbles massage your feet while hot jets of sulphur water pummel your legs. Places to relax – if you only had time! And hot herbal drinks always available so you don’t dehydrate.
You can’t take photos inside the bathes so to see how it looks you need to take a look at the web site. The decoration was beautiful – whites, blues and greens, carefully placed plants and stones and interesting paintings and sculptures all around. There was no sense of rush or being monitored – if you needed help someone was there but for most of the time you were left to relax and enjoy.
Bliss!











